Forum
 
MotorSwap.org Forum Index

FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register

Log in
Profile


rwd L67: is it plauseable
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    MotorSwap.org Forum Index // RWD Applications
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
j ryder
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 22 Aug 2003
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 6:31 pm    Post subject: rwd L67: is it plauseable Reply with quote
Hi, Im a newbie I currently drive a 96 3.8L camaro. The engine and transmission are both shot. I'm thinking of swaping in the L67. But I come across the obvious problem of my car being rear wheel drive. I just wanted to know if any one has tried this or knows anyone who has tried. Maybe if anyone knows a good link to a site that could shine some light onto my predicament. I come across the ever present money problem I don't want to spend much more than $3000. Im looking for as many used parts as possible. Does this sound feasable. I figured I'd ask here because you guys seem to be pretty knowlegeable. I appreciate any feedback that you can offer.

Thanks
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
brianteel
Admin
Admin


Joined: 14 Feb 2003
Posts: 3360
Location: Warren, NJ

PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
we have talked about this a few times...you will run into a problem with the intake. one thing that has been decused is using the MP112 super off a mustang cobra. i so give it a shot and find out
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
awesomeame
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 08 Aug 2003
Posts: 3
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
hey, i've got an '02 camaro & was looking into this as well. the l67 supercharger & pulley will not clear your 93-97 hood. this isn't an issue for 98+ cars. the intake would be against your firewall, so you would have to move the firewall back a few inches. problem is i don't think anyone online has actually done this yet, so there is very limited information on this topic. you would also have to change sensors. i'm not sure if you could get your abs & tcs to work with the l67 pcm, although i don't know...something to think about, anyway.

--matt
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
brianteel
Admin
Admin


Joined: 14 Feb 2003
Posts: 3360
Location: Warren, NJ

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
well if the systems are the same on both cars it will work
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
SE_Sleeper
GT Level Member
GT Level Member


Joined: 18 Mar 2003
Posts: 68
Location: Fort Wayne, IN

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2003 4:31 pm    Post subject: RWD L67 swap Reply with quote
Well believe it or not, I have an 86 Olds Cutlass supreme in the works right now for an L67 swap. I bought a engine and trans from a 96 firebird to get everything fitted up in the car, since a series 2 3800 was never offered obviously. As of now, I had to make motor mount adapter plates and use oldsmobile motor mounts, and it has the 4L60E bolted behind it which leaves a few problems with the supercharged engine. I will get it running for now with this engine. At least exhaust is cheap. A Hooker Grand National cat back is only $300 and Ceramic coated Pacesetter headers were only $300, sure beats FWD prices! Since the L67 never came with the 4L60E I will run a 95 OBD 1 series 1 L67 PCM for the engine and a seperate truck PCM to control the trans and tune myself for free to my hearts content. I will use an M112 from a lightning with an adapter plate under it to line up with the L67 intake. Sounds like a pain in the A$$ but I WILL make this all work! Probably wont finish till early spring, still need an L67 to build. The car also has 4.10 gears in it. Imagine all that L67 torque in a rwd car that has a lot of suspension work done and will hook hard. I will keep all posted as I progress.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
brianteel
Admin
Admin


Joined: 14 Feb 2003
Posts: 3360
Location: Warren, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2003 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
here is the deal on the rear wheel drive question. IT WILL NOT WORK. after being at raceway park talk to a few poeple the engine goes to far under the firewall and the supercharge will not work. You might be able to use the Novi 1000 and 2000 kit that zzperformance.com has
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
bob
SE Level Member
SE Level Member


Joined: 29 Aug 2003
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
You could use a blower from the aussie L67. Not sure how you would go about getting one, but that would work.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
brianteel
Admin
Admin


Joined: 14 Feb 2003
Posts: 3360
Location: Warren, NJ

PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
depends on the year of the car
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
StansGT
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2003 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
You should diffenitly look into getting the intake setup from a holden csv, it is basically what you need to solve your clearance issues..
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I am considering a '99 L67 swap into my RWD '85 Nissan 720 pickup (this would make for one hell of a little lightweight sleeper in this 2950 lb truck) and have basically determined how to do so, but I have a few questions to the experienced on this board.

First of all I will detail the basic plan using the following components for use in a RWD layout:

1) '99 model longblock L67 engine with timing chain cover and injectors
2) '99 model FWD power steering pump & tensioner with bracketry
3) '96 up RWD Camaro oil pan & pickup
4) '97 up L67 lower intake manifold (with modified coolant outet to allow hose to run forward along side of blower case)
5) '96 up RWD Camaro alternator with bracketry & heater hose outlets (same as '00 up L67)
6) Custom motor mounts with integrated AC comp mount for aftermarket Sanden AC comp (this is to pull the AC comp in tighter to the L67 block in order to clear my truck's driver side frame rail & steering box)
7) '01 model Ford Lightning MP112 Eaton supercharger with top inlet duct & throttle body assembly (this would be mounted on a custom 0.5" thick aluminum plate that is in turn mounted to the L67 intake manifold)
Cool '99 model L67 supercharger belt drive tensioners & bracketry
9) Modified '96-'98 RWD manual trans Camaro wiring harness with L67 harness additions
10) '96 up Camaro 3.8 manual trans flywheel (rebalanced for L67 engine)
11) '94-'95 RWD GM S10 2.2 4 cyl manual trans bellhousing (this has the std Ford T5 bolt pattern enabling a Ford WC T5 manual trans case to bolt up to the L67 engine & has the proper drivers side starter location)
12) '90 Ford Mustang T5 WC gear set & mainshaft (the Ford input shaft is 7.18" long which is the same as the T5 used on the '96 up V6 Camaro, but the Ford is a WC version with better gear ratios than the WC V6 T5 used in the Camaro)
13) '83-'84 Nissan 280ZX turbo T5 manual trans tailshaft housing & shift rod (this moves the shifter centerline to the extreme rear of the tailshaft housing to fit correctly in my truck & has a mech drive speedometer gear to allow my '85 720 truck's mech speedometer to still function)
14) '96 up Camaro T5 manual trans hydraulic throwout bearing with integral front input shaft bearing cap (this eliminates the need for a throwout fork setup that gets in the way of the RWD exhaust system)
15) '99 L36 or L67 starter

All of the above components will create a perfect RWD L67 setup that just fits under the stock hood of my Nissan truck!

The problem I have yet to resolve though, is what to do for the PCM to control this engine. From the posts I have read, using an earlier '95 OBDI reprogrammed PCM is one way to go, on the otherhand since I am using a manual trans a '99 PCM might work by simply leaving all of the auto trans wiring functions disabled, and eliminating the VSS feed to the PCM. The PCM should still operate the engine in that manner, even though some error codes may be given for the auto trans functions that are disabled (drivability should still be OK in the process?). What is really the best way to go for the PCM for such a combination as detailed above? Also, will a '98-'99 PCM control a 4L60E auto trans if I decide to go that route instead of using a manual trans, or is the FWD 4T60E/65E not compatible with the controls required for a RWD 4L60E? Another alternative is to use a standalone aftermarket controller such as the Electromotive TEC III, but that is a pretty expensive way to go!

Let me know what all of you think about this.


Last edited by tloof on Tue Nov 25, 2003 12:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Update on the RWD conversion of the L67.

I have found the IDEAL manual trans bellhousing for the L67 engine to convert it to a RWD configuration. It is the bellhousing from the '94-'95 2.2 4 cyl Chevy S10 pickup (that is the only year models that this bellhousing was available in). It has the EXACT same engine mounting bolt pattern as the L67 (which is also the same as all 60 degree GM V6's), and also has the correct provision for starter location (left side of engine, or drivers side in a RWD layout). On top of that, it has the FORD T5 manual trans bolt pattern in a straight up mounting position (not the tilted pattern that the Camaro's have which really messes up any swap into a RWD platform). It enables the use of ANY '90-'93 Ford Mustang WC T5 manual trans on the L67 (the Ford WC T5 is good for a 300 ft-lb torque rating, and the stock L67 is a 280 ft-lb torque rated engine), which is just strong enough for a slightly modified L67 (up to around 300 hp & 300 ft-lb of torque or so). There are even stronger aftermarket T5's available (up to 330 ft-lb torque rating) for those with higher hp modified L67's if needed (these typically cost around $1200 new). The '90-'93 Ford T5's also have the right input shaft length (7.18") to fit up perfectly to the L67 engine's crankshaft pilot bushing when using the above mentioned bellhousing (the pilot bushing ID will have to be bored out to the larger 0.668" dia size of the Ford shaft, or the Ford shaft can be machined down to match the pilot bushing 0.59" dia size of the GM...this pilot bushing is what is used in the L36 series II 3.8's in the manual trans Camaros).

As for the supercharger, a Ford Lightning MP112 can be adapted to the stock L67 intake by using a 0.5" thick aluminum adapter plate. I also looked at using the L36 lower intake with adapter plate (from the '96 up RWD Camaro) since it would allow a front mounted coolant hose outlet to be used instead of the rear mounted outlet that the FWD L67 manifold has, but it turns out that it won't work as I had hoped because there is not enough metal in the lower intake to allow grinding out a decent amount of plenum area. The Ford Lightning MP112 blower does have a top mounted inlet, so it will probably only fit in RWD trucks that have a taller hood height. For lower hoods that sports cars normally have, another option would be to use the aftermarket Eaton MP90 from Magnuson that has a rear inlet flange that a 180 degree elbow inlet duct could be made to clear the firewall of the RWD vehicle it is used in (it too would require an aluminum adapter plate to fit onto the intake manifold). This setup would be 3" lower in overall engine height in comparison to the Ford Lightning MP112 blower with its top inlet duct. One last option would be to find the RWD blower with 180 degree inlet duct & intake manifold from an Australian Holden (Australia's GM equivalent) 3.8 V6 since they had a RWD version of the L67 engine, but I doubt it would be a cheaper option than what I detailed above.

The only remaining detail is what to use for the PCM to control the L67 in a manual trans conversion (I am told that any of the PCM's will work fine without affecting drivability as long as the VSS sensor is left unattached to the PCM...but there will be error codes given off that would cause a service engine lamp to light up if the lamp was to be connected up). Without a VSS input to the PCM there is no vehicle speed limiter as well. This should not be a problem on most RWD conversions since a separate 4000 pulse VSS can be used via the mech speedometer drive in the T5 manual trans when an electric speedometer is used (obviously if a mech speedometer is used then no VSS is required at all).

This should shed some light on how to accomplish a good RWD conversion!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gmrossjr@msn.com
SE Level Member
SE Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 9
Location: Prince Edward Island, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2003 6:08 am    Post subject: VSS Considerations Reply with quote
I had the problem with the 4000 PPM Getrag signal replacing a 2400 PPM. The solution was a Dakota Digital Module to recalibrate the PPM. It took two tries but got it to work the second time around, Dakota didn't advertize but they do make an altered module that had the span to correct the error.
In my OBD I/ 1988 ECM/ BCM the car was not at all happy with the doubled up VSS signal, the ECM was, in a word, confused, high and surging idle at higher speeds and I can't remember what other oddities were going on. This was a year ago-no problem since.
I'd be surprised if in fact it will work correctly with no VSS signal.
_________________
Greg Ross
1988 E-Body Reatta Coupe
Series I 3800 S/C
Getrag Model

284 5-Spd.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
OK, lets assume that a VSS signal is required for drivability purposes on a L67 conversion (even if a manual trans is used). Does anyone on this board know how many teeth are on the reluctor ring in the FWD auto transmissions that come in the '96-'03 series II 3.8 L67's? I do know that the T5 manual trans used on the '96 up series II 3.8 L36's in the Camaro has 17 teeth on its reluctor ring. This gives the L36 ECM a 17 pulse/rev signal that is then converted by the ECM to a 4000 PPM signal for the speedometer & cruise control module, and some higher number (7X the 17PPR signal?) for the 4WAL brake module. Now, most RWD GM auto transmissions have a 40 tooth reluctor ring in them, so if the FWD auto transmissions have the same, then the Dakota Digital module could be used to output the equivalent 40 PPR that the stock auto trans has (assuming that is what the FWD auto trans comes with?) when using the standard 17 tooth reluctor ring that the T5 manual trans comes with in the '96 up Camaro's (the 17 tooth T5 reluctor ring from a Camaro could be retrofitted into the Ford T5 that I plan to use). On the other hand, I could avoid the need for the Dakota Digital aftermarket conversion module by getting the aftermarket clamp-on 40 tooth reluctor ring that JTR sells, and retrofit it to the Ford T5 manual trans output shaft if that is the correct amount of teeth on the reluctor ring of the FWD auto transmissions.

Anyone that knows the correct amount of teeth that comes on the FWD auto trans reluctor rings, please let me know!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
rdpriceus
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 28 Dec 2003
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just found your site. Helps a lot with a current project. Anyway in the last post, someone was asking about pcm programing, etc. I have used www.fuelinjection.com out of texas for wiring harness and ecm programing on 3.1 and 3.4 V6 GM engines. Does a great job if you have the harness and computer for him to work with. Otherwise, it takes a long time for him to find a harness to make usable in custom applications. Among other things, he takes out the O2 sensor, reprograms for manual trans or custom automatics, removes theift and passkey stuff.

Tloof, thanks for the bellhousing/T5 info. One more question. What are you using for flywheel/clutch/preasure plate in this custom setup?
Thanks
Richard Price
Memphis
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The current plan is to use a rebalanced manual trans flywheel from the '96 up NA L36 3800 V6 out of a Camaro. I'm not sure what to use for the pressure plate & clutch disk yet, but it will probably be some sort of aftermarket setup (probably a McLeod unit). I was planning to use a stock '96 up hydraulic throw out bearing from the manual trans Camaro as well, but I now feel that simply using the stock external slave cylinder with throwout fork that comes on the '94-'95 S10 4 cyl bellhousing will work just fine for this application (this allows easy repair of the slave cylinder seals without removal of the transmission if needed).

Hope this helps you out!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Takis Pallas
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 23 Dec 2003
Posts: 39
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 1:12 am    Post subject: Re: RWD L67 swap Reply with quote
SE_Sleeper wrote:
Since the L67 never came with the 4L60E .


Actaully it did. That's what the aussie L67s run behind them in the commodores. They only came out with them, never manual. Which REALLY SUCKS!!!
We can use the boxes that the NA 3.8s run but they aren't up to the torque that the L67s put out, especially if the plan is to modify them. So we run a T5 or a T56 that come out with the LS1s. Or even a T56 from a Mustang. Better ratios and more suited to the V6 in the Mustang T56 compared to the aussie T56 in the LS1 powered Commodores.

If anyone needs a PCM for an auto L67 RWD let me know and I'll see if I can find one for you. Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Takis Pallas,

Since you live in Australia maybe you can help me out for the L67 RWD conversion I am planning in my '85 Nissan pickup.

There are a couple of Australian RWD L67 type specific components required to convert a US FWD L67 engine over to a RWD configuration that would really help ease my conversion.

They are as follows:
1) the alternator mounting bracket with belt tensioner (with all mounting bolts)...the Australian version locates the alternator farther over to the passenger side of the vehicle which will help the alternator clear the Ford Lightning MP112 blower that I am going to use on my RWD L67 conversion.
2) the coil mounting bracket with SC belt tensioner (with all mounting bolts)...there is a US version that I have that appears to be the same as the Australian version, except the Australian version might have the accessory belt idler pulley built into it which the US versions don't use at all (see next item for more about this issue)
3) the accessory belt idler pulley with mounting bracket...if this is a separate item that is not part of the coil mounting bracket, then the above coil mounting bracket will not be needed for my conversion (this idler pulley is located between the alternator & AC compressor and might be part of the coil mounting bracket, but from the pictures I have seen I can't tell for sure).
4) the SC drive belt idler pulley with mounting bracket (with all mounting bolts)...the Australian mounting bracket is probably the same as the US version, but the Australian pulley itself is not since both the accessory belt & SC belt ride on it, whereas the US version has a shorter pulley that only the SC belt rides on it.
5) the AC comp mounting bracket (with all mounting bolts)...this is only required if the Australian bracket moves the AC comp in closer to the side of the engine block than the US version that locates the farthest outside point of the AC comp exactly 11.5" (29.2 cm) from the crankshaft centerline. My conversion needs to locate the outside point of the AC comp no more than 10.75" (27.3 cm) from the crankshaft centerline in order to clear my frame. I can build a custom bracket to achieve this, but from the pictures I have seen the Australian version appears to be pulled in tighter to the engine block than the US version?
6) the coolant hose assembly that runs just below the alternator bracket and goes back around to the rear of the engine into intake manifold (including the coolant thermastat housing that bolts to the intake manifold)...I can't really tell from pictures of the Australian L67 version how the top radiator hose assembly runs along the engine, so maybe if you could get some pictures of all of this and send them to me it will help me out some.
7) a set of L67 engine block mounting brackets & rubber mounts from a RWD Commodore (these are needed to adapt into the Nissan 720 pickup by using Pat Gardner's adapter frame brackets).
Cool a set of L67 RWD Commodore exhaust manifolds...this is only if the Commodore's exhaust manifolds are tucked in really tight to the engine such that the overall engine width is no more than 22" (55.9 cm) so that it will fit into my Nissan pickup, otherwise a set of custom exhaust headers will have to be made.
9) a '98 or '99 model RWD L67 Commodore PCM with intact engine wiring harness.

If you have a line on such used parts down in Australia then please let me know who to contact to get them, or if you can get them yourself then let me know. I can be contacted at travis.loofbourrow@airliquide.com

Thanks
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Takis Pallas
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 23 Dec 2003
Posts: 39
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Tloof, I'll try and get as much info as I can for you. I can get the parts from Holden at wholesale prices, I'm in the automotive trade. So I can get the prices for you in AU dollars. Then if you are happy with the prices we can organise payment/shipment.

I'll get back to you with the info you require.

A question you might be able to answer for me, the manual L67s you have in the states, would the PCMs from them be compatible with a RWD L67 with a T5 behind it? I was thinking of using an L36 manual GBox PCM and putting a L67 chip in it. Do you think that would work. Is there any difference in the wiring loom between the L36 and the L67? Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
brianteel
Admin
Admin


Joined: 14 Feb 2003
Posts: 3360
Location: Warren, NJ

PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
i would like some RWD style M90s if you can get them. email me
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Takis Pallas,

The only RWD L36 version we have in the US comes in the '96 up Camaro & Firebird, and it has an engine harness that is completely different from a US FWD L67 harness. The manual trans version of that RWD L36 harness is what I plan to modify for use in my Nissan truck conversion, but I can tell you that it really is fairly easy to eliminate the auto tranny control wiring out of that auto trans engine harness in order to convert it over to a manual trans type. The only thing that has to be kept on the auto trans harness is the VSS sensor wiring so that it can be connected up to whatever type of VSS sensor is used on the T5 manual trans that you use. You are probably better off to simply use a Holden L67 RWD auto trans engine harness and convert it over to a manual trans configuration because there are other differences in a US RWD L36 harness from a L67 engine than just the manual trans part itself.

As for the US PCM's, as I understand it they do NOT have removable chips, but rather they have flash programmable eprom's (but don't quote me on this), so I doubt you would be able to use a US RWD manual trans L36 PCM for your manual trans conversion. Maybe Brianteel might have some more comments on this issue. At this point in time, I plan to simply use an auto trans FWD L67 PCM that is fooled into thinking it is always in drive when the clutch is engaged, and in neutral when the clutch pedal is pushed in (look at the post in the Fiero section under "How to bypass the auto tranny controls on the 3800 PCM..." for more details about this). You should probably do the same thing with a Holden RWD L67 PCM on your manual trans conversion.

I don't know if you took note of my posts on the recommended bellhousing & T5 manual tranny to use behind the L67 engine, but you might want to go back and look at my previous posts in this section concerning that. If there is no Holden version of our '94-'95 2.2L 4 cyl GM S10 pickup down under, then I have an extra manual trans bellhousing that I can send you for helping me out on finding the Australian RWD specific L67 items I need for my US L67 RWD conversion.

Let me know what you find out.

Thanks for your help "down under"!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hey one other thing Takis Pallas,

Can you post a few pictures of your Australian RWD L67 engine that clearly shows details of how the top radiator hose setup runs from the radiator all along the engine to the back of it. Include clear shots that shows how the heater hose connections attach up below the alternator bracket (it appears that the heater hose connections are literally part of the alternator bracket itself?). From the previous pictures you posted that show your intercooler setup, it is apperent to me that the intake manifold and thermastat housing that is used on the Holden RWD L67 is exactly the same as the US FWD L67 engine (although the Holden RWD M90 blower itself is different due to it's 45 degree rear inlet angle and special rear inlet duct), but obviously the way the radiator hose assembly is routed to the rear of the engine in the RWD configuration that the Holden uses is entirely different than in the FWD variants within the US.

Also, can you look closely at your engine and tell me for sure whether the accessory idler pulley that the accessory belt runs over and that is located between the alternator & AC comp is part of the bracket assembly that has the SC tensioner pulley & idler pulley on it (the coil pack mounts to this same bracket setup). Maybe you could post a good clear picture that shows all of that as well? If you can, try to also show clearly the second lower SC/accessory belt idler pulley & bracket in the picture (or get a separate picture of it). Also, let me know how far out from the engine crankshaft centerline that the Holden's AC comp goes (to the farthest point of the AC comp itself, and NOT to the AC comp centerline). Unlike the US version L67, the Holden seems to have the alternator mounted farther out towards the passenger side of the vehicle, and also appears to have the AC comp pulled in tighter to the engine block, which is why it has the added accessory belt idler pulley (otherwise the accessory belt would hit the water pump pulley when running between the alternator & the AC comp). The US FWD L67 on the otherhand, appears to have the alternator mounted closer to the center of the engine, and the AC comp mounted farther out away from the engine block (which causes interference with the frame in my RWD conversion), and thus has no accessory idler pulley since the accessory belt just clears the water pump pulley. The Holden setup is exactly what i need to get the accessories to fit within my RWD Nissan pickup!

Thanks
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Takis Pallas
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 23 Dec 2003
Posts: 39
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I don't have my camera at the moment. I will have it by Tuesday ( my dad took it away with him). I'll get the pictures up then. Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Guest






PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The L-67 PCM will plug into a RWD 4L60E and 'mostly' work for everything, with a very minor re-programing needed for your gear ration.
Back to top
tloof
LS Level Member
LS Level Member


Joined: 18 Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, Tx

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
How can that be since the tranny connectors & number of pin terminals in those connectors are different between the 4L60E RWD tranny and the 4T65E FWD tranny? Or are you meaning that the FWD L67 PCM will plug into a Camaro L36 RWD engine/tranny harness and in turn properly operate the 4L60E auto tranny? (this may be possible, but I am not entirely convinced that a FWD 4T65E PCM controller will work on the 4L60E RWD auto tranny since the two have a different number of pin terminals within their respective connectors...there must be some function differences there?).
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Guest






PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2004 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi Guys, I'm a newbie here, theres some interesting info on this thread. Its good to see I'm not the only one with this dreaded disease........
You can check out some photos on my website www.kalmaker.com.au/page50.html (and others) to see some of what I went thru' to put an L67 Series 2 into my RWD L36 Series 1 Commodore Ute here is Oz.
I purchased a new US Buick engine locally and converted all the necessary parts over to match the Oz version.
This may be a big help to you tloof.
I have had a few emails from USA asking if I can get hold of Oz blower. About a year ago there were dozens around, and thats how I scored mine for $750 new. Theres one in the paper today for $1500.
If you also look on my web at 6 cyl customs, there is also a US L67 thats been installed into a Mitsi Sigma. There are no Oz bits on it. He made an elbow for the rear and used the Hitachi TB. He made his own radiator hose parts. He used L36 flywheel, but used wrong one to start with that had different balance, and of course vibrated bad.
We havent any software programs yet to suit the USA PCM's for any of these SC3800's, but we do have for our Oz PCM's.
In my ute/pickup, I used the original one it came with which has bank fire, and 2 bar MAP sensor, combined with 4L60e. It was very easy to tune using Kalmaker. We toughened up the tranny with Corvette bits and extra clutches, and that lasted 2 years. i only got it back yesterday after breaking sprag, so we did some more mods as well. Its pretty tough now.
We have software for all the later Oz PCM's as well, so switching to manual is easy. We have programs that suit either using T5 type that uses low res VSS (hall effect) or Getrag that uses 40 tooth reluctor the same as Auto.
Also the Oz L67 Commodores that are exported to Saudi Arabia are optional as MANUAL trans. I think this was intended for camel chasing.....
I can help you out with Oz ecm & pcm's for conversions and software to reprogram them to suit. These are memcal type, not flash.
Hope this is of help
Back to top
Post new topic   Reply to topic    MotorSwap.org Forum Index // RWD Applications All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
Page 1 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
 
   
 

 

 


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group